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Gunung-An is a minimalist, expansive space accented with traditional Javanese and Balinese art and furnishings set in a Balinese village in Ubud. Here Marquis Wood (left) and Lea Geschwinder (in floral jumpsuit) chat to participants before the Alchemical Presence workshop. Photo: Peter Joachim

Find yourself in Ubud: how to embrace the Balinese spiritual way of life

  • Disconnect from the outside world and focus on being present at Gunung-An, a boutique retreat in Bali
  • Jacqueline Pereira tries finding balance as she embraces a new way of life
Indonesia

I am trapped. Often in my body. Mostly in my mind. And, definitely, in my soul.

I waver between accepting my wrinkles – which indicate a well-lived life – and slathering on miracle potions to erase lost youth. Between listening to incessant stories and craving for a quiet mind. Dabbling in crystals to cleanse my chakras while admitting defeat and resorting to just watching my plants grow.

Bali living at its best in this book of beautiful homes inspired by nature

Returning to self is a chore – let alone loving and caring for yourself.

So when an invitation to participate in an Alchemical Presence workshop popped up on my Instagram feed, my first thought was, “bikini or swimsuit?” I’m like that. A little shallow, perhaps, but since a Friday Steam Sauna was scheduled to end the session, I was rightly concerned.

The pool at Gunung-an. Photo: Peter Joachim

Slightly frazzled, I found myself at Gunung-An, a boutique retreat in Ubud, Bali. As soon as you cross the wooden Bridge of Peace, you find yourself in a foyer faced with stopped clocks, time not ticking.

Something happens in the lushly-enveloped-by-nature resort. That peaceful surroundings will you to strip off the outside world and enter the space within. “We created the space to disconnect and listen to who we are, to find the freedom within,” says Mark Kuan, founder of the retreat, which opened last year.

That night, the moon was magical and full. I sat with six others, ages ranging from 18 to 50, to receive blessings from a local priest who chanted mantras. Smoke rose from lit pyres, the air already heavy with incense.

The full moon at a purification ceremony. Photo: Peter Joachim

Balinese life is based on spirituality, with ceremonies revered, and rituals to connect us to the unseen world. The art of gratitude is believed to purify and reconnect us to the divine energy within. Open, receive, send out, take in and hold, all symbolised by incense, fire, water, flowers and rice.

Next on this journey of discovery was melukat, a purification ceremony. This ritual cleanses the body spiritually and physically, washing away negative elements from our present and past lives in natural spring water.

On our journey down the steep steps to the waterfall we stopped twice to pay homage to the gods. At the bottom, cold, crystal-clear water gushed out with great force, hitting our heads in short, sharp stabs.

Holy baths at certain natural spring water pools, considered spiritual water temples, are taken by the Balinese to purge evil spirits. Although I had done this sacred cleanse once before, I was not prepared to observe what the Balinese have always believed. Soon after a few locals waded into the narrow pool, I saw the water turn a torrid, murky, dark brown.

“That man’s bad spirit has just left his body,” explains our guide. Just seconds after the man stepped out of the pool, the water ran clear again.

This ritual cleanses the body spiritually and physically from your present and past lives, washing away negative elements in natural spring water. Photo: Peter Joachim

Later that afternoon our group, from the world’s far-flung corners, sat down in a sharing circle on the resort’s rooftop terrace. The tropical rain arrived, roaring. The cacophony of birds and insects abated. A little wary of each other, we each looked into another’s eyes, daring to see more than we usually would.

Being present for a couple of hours, connecting with people and summoning the courage to reveal is not a situation I’m comfortable with, even with my family or friends. The fluid Alchemical Presence workshop, led by hosts Marquis Wood and Lea Geschwinder, was a study in going with the flow, becoming in tune with ourselves and our surroundings.

Genah Melukat Sebatu is a water temple. It is a mostly quiet space, to cleanse and renew. Photo: Peter Joachim

As I had to leave, I rushed through my delicious vegetarian meal, the jackfruit rendang especially moreish. A fellow participant, Akasha Chapman, interrupted my haste with a “Do you really want to return home?” that stopped me in my tracks. The Costa Rican’s trip to this side of the globe was improvised, decided just a week before. She did not know when she would return home or where she would go next.

To Chapman, Bali is about letting go, a place where she feels aligned, where all pieces of the puzzle fit perfectly. “I listen to the subtleties and observe,” she says. “I always begin with a question. I keep questioning myself and one question leads to another. One breadcrumb after another.”

As for me? Here I am, back where I began. Wanting to be 25, like Chapman.

People at the resort, including Akasha Chapman (left). Photo: Peter Joachim



Find yourself in Ubud

Gunung-An: A minimalist, expansive space accented with traditional Javanese and Balinese art and furnishings set in a Balinese village in Ubud. The writer experienced the ‘Welcome home to self’ 3-night package, which includes vegetarian meals, daily massage/spa treatments, temple and holy bath visits and airport transfers to Ubud. Prices start from US$385 (HK$3,018). gunung-an.com

Where do Asia’s super rich buy their weekend retreats?

Genah Melukat Sebatu: Not far from the Tegallalang rice fields, this water temple consists of ceremonial prayer spots, waterfalls and holy natural spring water for spiritual water cleansing.

Alchemical Presence: A Thich Nhat Hanh-trained meditation and presence coach whose clients come from as far as New York and Dubai, with Skype and one-to-one options available. The Alchemical Presence workshop costs 150,000 rupiah (US$10). monkquis.com

The minimalist interior invites a more mindful, sustainable way of life. Photo: Peter Joachim

Before you go

Situated 30km from Mount Agung, Ubud is outside the volcano’s 4km exclusion zone, so considered safe to travel, according to local authorities. You should still check media reports or travel guide sites such as bali.com for advice and updates on volcanic and seismic activity before travelling.

At Genah Melukat Sebatu there is grace and poise at every turn. Photo: Peter Joachim

Getting there

Cathay Pacific, Hong Kong Airlines, Cathay Dragon and Garuda Indonesia fly direct to Bali from Hong Kong. Ubud in Gianyar district is about one and a half hours from Ngurah Rai International Airport. Ride-hailing app Grab Bali is the cheapest option to travel on the island.

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: Put yourself to rites with a spiritual and physical cleansing in Bali
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