How the French Riviera inspires Argentinian chef Mauro Colagreco’s cuisine, cookbook reveals all
In his new book, the celebrated chef behind the two-Michelin-starred restaurant Mirazur presents recipes – some may not be easy for home cooks – that pay tribute to the idyllic region
In his book, Mirazur (2018), Colagreco writes, “On the Cote d’Azur, Mirazur is a settlement in Menton, at the foot of the Maritime Alps: the last French village in the east and the first to the west of ‘Italian pasta’. A privileged location, it is both a departure point and arrival point, a vortex where its magic unfolds and is concentrated. A centre that beats with the same pulse as the countryside […]
“At Mirazur, the experience of this atmosphere is vivid and palpable. Jutting out towards the Mediterranean, framed by the majestic walls of the mountains, surrounded by a centenary garden, each of the three levels across its magnificent glass building reproduces and multiplies the experience of that incomparable quality of light. In the dining room, the sensuous journey that begins with a magnificent view of the sea continues when each detail of the structure is discovered, each object on the table, every plate presented to the diner with its universe of shapes and colours. A set of intensity and contrasts in perfect harmony with the environs.”
Colagreco also writes about the people and ingredients of the area: Laure, who cultivates and harvests the vegetables grown in the restaurant garden; Anne Marie and her family, who raise goats and make goat cheese; Albert, “friend of mushrooms”; and Gilles, who grows “the best cherries”.
The dishes are beautifully photographed, as is the landscape. And as with most books by Michelin-starred chefs, many of the recipes will not be easy for the average home cook. Kohlrabi snail, for instance, has you dehydrating kohlrabi for eight hours and sous-viding the snails. They are then extracted from the shells, their feet and intestines are removed and discarded, and the snail meat is blended. Some of the more accessible recipes include fig granita; squab with spelt risotto, black sesame sauce and strawberry coulis; cherries (full instructions: “wash and dry the cherries and place them on crushed ice”); tomato martini with saffron oil; new potatoes with anchovies and capers; turbot with celeriac purée and smoked sauce; and beetroot with beetroot foam, smoked eel and Jerez vinegar.