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Woo Young-mi opens Seoul Fashion Week with a military-style bang

Celebrated South Korean designer Woo Young-mi presented a collection of designs under her Soli Homme label that were inspired by Vietnam and the global peace movement. Photo: Seoul Design Foundation

South Korean designer Woo Young-mi, creator of the menswear label Solid Homme, raised the curtain on the 2019 spring/summer Hera Seoul Fashion Week at Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul, last week with her runway show featuring “future-oriented” coats and jackets.

Woo was chosen by the organisers as one of two honorary designers. The other is Park Chun-moo.

 

Woo, 58, said she was “honoured” to showcase her label at the opening ceremony. The designer pointed out that Solid Homme had survived a turbulent three decades, and added that it was a privilege to celebrate the label’s 30th anniversary at the nation’s largest fashion event, which has drawn attention from global fashion gurus in recent years.

 

For the show, the veteran designer revisited an anti-war concept for the 2018 autumn/winter season.

One hundred models were used to present the chic, contemporary collection, titled “100 Creatures”.

The setting, inspired by Vietnam’s Yen Bai province, about 280 kilometres from Hanoi, saw the ground covered in a thick layer of sand, and tiers of step-like seats for the spectators, reminiscent of the region’s rice terraces.

 

Military elements in vinyl, man-made and iridescent materials dotted the collection, while large, forward-facing pockets and canvas accessories reflected an era of functional garments that were re-appropriated by a war-torn population trying to rebuild their lives.

The tropical climate was referenced in the show’s colour palette, where light khaki contrasted with bright neon accents. New season accessories included canvas bucket hats in neutral tones and tan leather satchels.

 

The show closed with light, cool fabrics layered under oversized wool coats, an apt showcase of Vietnamese trends during the 1960s and 1970s.

The response from the audience was more than enthusiastic – all 1,300 seats were filled with eager fashion gurus, members of the press, and foreign buyers.

 

As a designer, Woo has witnessed first-hand the rise and fall of the country's garment and fashion industries.

Born in 1959, her teenage years in Korea coincided with a period of political unrest and turmoil.

She went on to open her first boutique in Seoul, then founded her namesake brand WOOYOUNGMI in 2002.

 

She has regularly presented her designs during men’s fashion week events in Paris since 2003.

In 2011, Woo was made a full member of French Fashion Association La Chambre Syndicale.

The Solid Homme label also figures prominently on the world map, in partnership with leading retailers in China, Hong Kong, the UK, France, Canada and the US. Woo has 28 stores in Korea and more than 20 worldwide.

Seoul Hera Fashion Week ends on Saturday, October 20.

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This article was originally written by Kang Aa-young for  The Korea Times .

Vietnam and global peace inspired the Korean designer’s dramatic Solid Homme collection, which had spectators on the edge of their seats